Dave Cuba writes:
If you were going to buy 1 descent multi-use plane would you get a 4 or a 5? I was looking at the Woodriver line at Woodcraft Supply.

Bill Johnston Replies:

If I could only have one bench plane initially and had a choice, I would choose a #5. 

 

I would tune and set it to take a .003 inch shaving (were this my only plane) with a crown on the blade that was .003 at the center of the crown and tapering off to sides.  I would set the blade so that at .003, the edges on each side were just above the sole (from the top) so the edges would not dig in.  The chip breaker should be checked and honed so that is fits the blade tightly with no light showing.  The chip breaker should be set very close to the edge, at about .003 in or right at the edges of the crown.

 

By the way, for prospective, a paper clip in .035" so we are talking 1/10th this at .003.

 

Both the bevel and the back of the blade opposite the  bevel should be honed with a mirror finish.  I use an oil stone with kerosene to float the metal particles out.  I do not use traditional oils like 3 in 1.  Many have success with sandpaper on glass but this is more expensive in the long run. 

 

The final setting of the blade will depend somewhat on the wood and the hardness and you should plan on adjustment on the fly.

 

This discussion is for a plane set for use somewhere between a smooth (#4)and a jack (#5) and is for someone without both a smooth and jack.

 

Please see our Woodriver Plane Review at: http://www.kcwoodworkersguild.org/Education/Articles/Woodriverplane6review.pdf .   We believe the Wood River line is a good plane (based off of the Stanley Bedrock design, a highly desirable but hard to come by plane at a high price). 

 

To do decent (bench) planing you will want to acquire at lease a 3 or 4, a 5, and a 6.  Ultimately you may wish two 3s/4s, two 5s, and a six.  All of these except the 6 (and higher) are readily found at garage sales and flea markets.  I usually pay about $15 and will have to do extensive cleanup, tuning, and sharpening. If you are in a hurry you can go the eBay route at a higher price. You will want to know what one looks like with all of its parts and in restorable condition before you pay more than $8-$10.  At $8 to $10 get the plane for parts, especially ones with unbroken handles.  I prefer Stanley made before World War I (pat. 1909), second before WWII.  After WWII the planes are largely junk when new.

 

By-the-way, oak is not always the best wood to initially practice on.  Cherry, mahogany for softer woods, walnut for medium hard, and hard maple for harder woods would be my practice choices.  Do not practice on anything that you can buy at Home Depot.  If you need something to practice on let me know.  Maple planes especially well.

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Dan Soliday writes:

I am planning to build my own workbench. After considerable research, I have decided to build a version of the Le Roubo bench from Christopher Schwarz's "Workbenches" book. I am trying to figure out what material to use. I want a bench made with wood that is strong, aesthetically pleasing, as economical as possible, and will last for multiple generations.

Although Hard Maple, Shagbark Hickory and White Oak are rated higher on his scales, Schwarz recommends Southern Yellow Pine or Douglas Fir

because they are strong enough, but also inexpensive and easy to find. He suggests buying construction grade 2"x12"x12' lumber. Southern Yellow Pine has been difficult to find around here, but Douglas Fir is plentiful.

Prices I found in or near KC (I need 7 or 8 boards) Douglas Fir 2"x12"x12') = $12.43 (I think its #2) (Lowe's/Home Depot), Southern Yellow Pine (2"x12"x12') = $20.18 (#1 grade) (Economy Lumber, Warrensburg, MO)

Is Douglas Fir a good quality workbench wood? Is Southern Yellow Pine or another wood better and worth the added expense and hassle? Is Maple better for the top and I should just bite the bullet and spend the extra money? Is there a better value workbench quality wood here in KC of which I am not aware?

I am interested in hearing different opinions so I can make a good decision, since this is the only bench I plan on making. Thanks for your help.

Bill Johnston Replies:

Dan, I am familiar with the Le Roubo bench and Christopher Schwarz's writings. I would also suggest that you read "The Workbench Book" by Scott Landis.  Do not buy construction grade lumber from any source ... Ever. It will be of very poor quality these days, warped, twisted, split, and worst of all "wet".

If you are serious about, "I want a bench made with wood that is strong, aesthetically pleasing, as economical as possible, and will last for multiple generations." and "this is the only bench I plan on making", you will need to upgrade your standards for selection of wood. I strongly suggest, however, that this not be the only workbench that you will make.

I've made several. It isn't that hard. You would be more than welcome to look at mine and discuss technique. I getting ready to make another, about 4 to 5 feet long that is transportable. I expect to do it for no out of pocket expense for wood at all. Louis Armstrong (http://www.kcwoodworkersguild.org/Education/Articles/Armstrong%20Workbench.pdf ) just finished a bench with low cost surplus maple for the top and little cost for wood. This is not always possible, I know, as it takes patients and time.

Were I purchasing wood from scratch, I would go to Metro Hardwoods (or shop around for price) and use hard maple for the top. It is very hard, durable, stable, and one of the lower cost woods suitable. Softer woods will not be as durable as the workbench takes a beating. With harder woods that beating just makes it look better. Harder woods are heavier. Workbenches need to be heavy. If you must skimp on costs you could use softwoods for the base. Many commercial benches use beech for the top (they are made in Europe) and softwoods for the base.

Hickory is not as available in this area and is subject to checking. Bad area of the country for Southern Yellow Pine. Though classified as a softwood it ain't soft. At lease some of it that I have seen in Florida. It would have to be inferior to Maple at the same price. I suspect maple would be less expensive. Metro gives 10% off to members.

Here are the characteristics for the top - Hard, heavy, dry (I would prefer kiln dried for this), inexpensive. Since it will be 8/4 (my recommendation) it should be as flat and straight and easy to saw as possible.

If you want me to put your question out to the guild please ask. I would be happy to. However, expect a wide range of opinions.

And remember, "never tell anyone what you are building because you might have to turn it into a chopping block.

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