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Special Interest Group - Hand Tools |
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A Special Interest Group may consist of a small group (usually) of members who share a particular machine, or area of endeavor such as Using Hand Tools, who would like to get together, talk shop, and further their special interest. Attending a SIG is also a fast track way to learn from fellow members who bring their experiences to share. An ideal group consists of several members, some of whom would like to learn more about and share their special interest, some who are beginners, and hopefully a mentor with expertise in the special interest. |
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All interested members of the Guild and their guests are invited to attend SIG meetings. The Hand Tool SIG Meets January 22, 2012, 2pm to 4pm Peter Rabbet Cuts a Dado Or Why so many different tools with the same name!?! The meeting will focus on families of handtools designed to do the same job but under different working conditions or even different species of wood. Here is a little food for thought to get you
thinking of questions you might have: The humble rabbet and dado joints can be cut 99
different ways (relax, we don’t demonstrate them all) in your shop.
Using examples of vintage handtools we can show how and why you
would select a skew rabbet plane over a jack-rabbet or a router
plane over a dado plane. Do I need a fence on my rabbet plane?
Which side should the fence be on? How can I work into a corner or
across the grain? Those woodworkers more comfortable with their
table saw and screaming electric router will find uses for handtools
to fine tune width, depth and angle. And believe it or not,
sometimes it is just faster to cut that one joint by hand instead of
setting up a machine, making test cuts and then cleaning up the dust
and chips after. Or maybe your project piece it just too large for
the machines in your home shop or the KCWG shop. Discussion and demonstration will not be
limited to dados and rabbets but instead will focus on the reasons
why so many versions of a tool evolved. Was it just the marketing
department dreaming up ways to sell more tools? Or is there a need
for the variations because different projects, different woods and
different ways of working demand it? Or do we just like gadgets? Facilitated by: Rob Young |
| " I find there is often a natural progression in woodworkers. First, power tools are preferred, then that progresses to hand tools, then on to making some of your own tools, then understanding how to occasionally adapt a purchased tool to the task at hand. Hand tools are good to work with because you can see what is happening to the wood while you are using the tool." ... Walter Murphy |
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"I try to love power tools. I really do try. But I don’t. Despite taking classes on how to use them properly, I’m simply not comfortable around objects with rapidly spinning blades. I know they’re efficient machines, but power tools are noisy, they take up a lot of shop space, and although fitted with safety devices, I can’t get past the fact that there’s a reason those devices are called dead man’s switches. What I do love are hand tools. A premium chisel or a well-made plane with a lovely rosewood handle is a work of art and fine craftsmanship in itself that’s a pleasure to view and hold. I just can’t say the same for a chop saw. Using chisels, planes, a handsaw, or even my humble handmade sanding block brings me more woodworking satisfaction than using any tool with a tail. Hand tools simply feel good in my palms, give me control, allow me to step back and measure my progress gradually by look and feel, and let me think in peace while crafting. Sometimes while working with a vintage plane I ponder what its former owner and shop life was like, never having to worry about my quiet contemplation being shattered by a piece of wood hurtling across the shop at warp speed and embedding itself into the drywall. (Not that something like that’s ever happened in our shop when using a power tool.) I’m not very skilled with hand tools, but I’m determined to learn, and a lot of poplar has been sacrificed in my efforts to improve with practice." Originally published in the Des Moines Woodworkers Association News. Printed here with permission of the author, Stephanie L. Riva. |
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Recommended Links - (provided by Rob Young) http://wkfinetools.com/tRestore/chisel/chisels-rest.asp Here you will find information on Restoring Old Tools including Chisels, Turning Gouges and Other Edge Tools including articles on:
"Make a Wooden Whistle With Handtools" was written by Rob Young, Facilitator KCWG Hand Tool SIG to help KCWG members who might be wondering "what next" after a few of the basics like chisels and a smoothing plane. Simple projects, like this whistle, provide the opportunity to practice precision hand tool skills like sawing, stock preparation, and part layout. October Hand Tool SIG Ball and Claw Carving Clinic Cal Hobbs presented a clinic on the carving of a Cabriolet leg with ball and claw feet to the October meeting of the Hand Tool SIG. In just under two hours Cal showed us the procedure from start to finish. Starting with a 2-3/4” x 2-3/4” x 16” billet of wood, marking out the basic leg shape, bandsawing to rough shape then more marking, handsawing, carving and scraping. It’s all quite simple when you break it down into small steps. For reference, Cal recommends Making Classic Carved Furniture : The Queen Anne Stool by Ron Clarkson and Tom Heller along with Making Classic Chairs, A Craftsman’s Chippendale Reference also by Ron Clarkson. Armed with these books, five basic chisels patience and enough guts to go try it, Cal says anyone can learn to make these furniture embellishments. A video of the clinic will be available. Cal Hobbs discsusses some of the variations commonly found in Cabriolet legs with ball and claw feet.
Rouging in the pearl held by the dragon's tallons.
Once the shape is roughed out on the bandsaw it is all done with a basic set of handtools. February 28th Meeting "Workbenches, Workholding Devices, and Clamps" photos by Robert Young. Please click on any picture to enlarge. Questions and replies to questions regarding hand tools, including opposing points of view, are welcome. Send your Q&As to: communication@kcwoodworkersguild.org . Andy Seago writes: Rob, I’m the guy you showed making rabbit joints with the hand plane. I learned a ton of stuff and was really a lot of fun. I really enjoyed sharpening the Stanley chisel and working with the hand planes. I would like to do what you suggested and practice with the chisels and #7,#6 and #4 bench planes to get a piece of lumber square. Once I get the basics down, then I can work more with the #45 plane. I know the hardest thing with these is setting them up properly so practice makes perfect. Should I practice on some scraps at the workshop or would you suggest that I go and get some cheap wood at Metro?
Rob Young's Reply:
For a practice wood, some people
like pine, others poplar and still others will recommend spending a bit more
and getting cherry or walnut or whatever wood you expect to be using most as
your practice wood. The logic there is that if you practice on the same
material you plan to use, you will already have a feel for how it behaves.
Sounds good but can be expensive. I would recommend poplar as a practice
wood. Relatively inexpensive, often times used as a seconary wood (drawer
sides, etc) so you will use it in projects. Pine is sort of OK but stay
away from stuff that is oozing resin and has lots of knots. Pine can
look alright but unless you get a good piece it can be a real bear to work
with since its density changes drasticly throughout. Dave Cuba writes: If you were going to buy 1 descent multi-use plane would you get a 4 or a 5? I was looking at the Woodriver line. Reply: If I could only have one bench plane initially and had a choice, I would choose ... Dan Soliday writes:I am planning to build my own workbench. After considerable research, I have decided to build a version of the Le Roubo bench from Christopher Schwarz's "Workbenches" book. I am trying to figure out what material to use. I want a bench made with wood that is strong, aesthetically pleasing, as economical as possible, and will last for multiple generations.
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The Hand Tool SIG meets monthly in the KC Woodworkers' Guild Shop on the fourth Sunday of each month from 2:00 until 3:30. Meeting announcements will be sent by email to all KC Woodworkers' Guild Members. All members of the KC Woodworkers' Guild are welcome to attend. Meetings Minutes:
Contact:
Robert Young
rwyoung@ieee.org
William Johnston
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This SIG will consist of people with an interest in acquiring, making, using, tuning and sharpening hand tools. Members agreed they were more interested in acquiring tools for use, rather than as part of a collection. The group’s focus on acquiring tools might include:
Tools that the group might like to make includes:
Structure of the Meetings
Members agreed to meet initially from 2 to 3:30 p.m. on the fourth Sunday of each month. Later, additional meetings may be held for projects, work sessions or workshops. Future topics discussed include:
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Hand Tool SIG Q&A |
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Dave Cuba writes: Bill Johnston Replies: If I could only have one bench plane initially and had a choice, I would choose a #5.
I
would tune and set it to take a .003 inch shaving (were this my
only plane) with a crown on the blade that was .003 at the
center of the crown and tapering off to sides. I would set the
blade so that at .003, the edges on each side were just above
the sole (from the top) so the edges would not dig in. The chip
breaker should be checked and honed so that is fits the blade
tightly with no light showing. The chip breaker should be set
very close to the edge, at about .003 in or right at the edges
of the crown.
By
the way, for prospective, a paper clip in .035" so we are
talking 1/10th this at .003.
Both the bevel and the back of the blade opposite the bevel
should be honed with a mirror finish. I use an oil stone with
kerosene to float the metal particles out. I do not use
traditional oils like 3 in 1. Many have success with sandpaper
on glass but this is more expensive in the long run.
The final setting of the blade will depend somewhat on the wood
and the hardness and you should plan on adjustment on the fly.
This discussion is for a plane set for use somewhere between a
smooth (#4)and a jack (#5) and is for someone without both a
smooth and jack.
Please see our Woodriver Plane Review at:
http://www.kcwoodworkersguild.org/Education/Articles/Woodriverplane6review.pdf . We
believe the Wood River line is a good plane (based off of the
Stanley Bedrock design, a highly desirable but hard to come by
plane at a high price).
To
do decent (bench) planing you will want to acquire at lease a 3
or 4, a 5, and a 6. Ultimately you may wish two 3s/4s, two 5s,
and a six. All of these except the 6 (and higher) are
readily found at garage sales and flea markets. I usually pay
about $15 and will have to do extensive cleanup, tuning, and
sharpening. If you are in a hurry you can go the eBay route at a
higher price. You will want to know what one looks like with all
of its parts and in restorable condition before you pay more
than $8-$10. At $8 to $10 get the plane for parts, especially
ones with unbroken handles. I prefer Stanley made before World
War I (pat. 1909), second before WWII. After WWII the planes
are largely junk when new.
By-the-way, oak is not always the best wood to initially
practice on. Cherry, mahogany for softer woods, walnut for
medium hard, and hard maple for harder woods would be my
practice choices. Do not practice on anything that you can buy
at Home Depot. If you need something to practice on let me
know. Maple planes especially well.
Dan Soliday writes:
I am planning to build my own
workbench. After considerable research, I have decided to build
a version of the Le Roubo bench from Christopher Schwarz's
"Workbenches" book. I am trying to figure out what material to
use. I want a bench made with wood that is strong, aesthetically
pleasing, as economical as possible, and will last for multiple
generations. Although Hard Maple, Shagbark
Hickory and White Oak are rated higher on his scales, Schwarz
recommends Southern Yellow Pine or Douglas Fir because they are strong enough,
but also inexpensive and easy to find. He suggests buying
construction grade 2"x12"x12' lumber. Southern Yellow Pine has
been difficult to find around here, but Douglas Fir is
plentiful. Prices I found in or near KC (I
need 7 or 8 boards) Douglas Fir 2"x12"x12') = $12.43 (I think
its #2) (Lowe's/Home Depot), Southern Yellow Pine (2"x12"x12') =
$20.18 (#1 grade) (Economy Lumber, Warrensburg, MO) Is Douglas Fir a good quality
workbench wood? Is Southern Yellow Pine or another wood better
and worth the added expense and hassle? Is Maple better for the
top and I should just bite the bullet and spend the extra money?
Is there a better value workbench quality wood here in KC of
which I am not aware? I am interested in hearing
different opinions so I can make a good decision, since this is
the only bench I plan on making. Thanks for your help. Bill Johnston Replies: Dan, I am familiar with the Le Roubo bench and Christopher Schwarz's writings. I would also suggest that you read "The Workbench Book" by Scott Landis. Do not buy construction grade lumber from any source ... Ever. It will be of very poor quality these days, warped, twisted, split, and worst of all "wet". If you are serious about, "I want a bench made with wood that is strong, aesthetically pleasing, as economical as possible, and will last for multiple generations." and "this is the only bench I plan on making", you will need to upgrade your standards for selection of wood. I strongly suggest, however, that this not be the only workbench that you will make. I've made several. It isn't that hard. You would be more than welcome to look at mine and discuss technique. I getting ready to make another, about 4 to 5 feet long that is transportable. I expect to do it for no out of pocket expense for wood at all. Louis Armstrong (http://www.kcwoodworkersguild.org/Education/Articles/Armstrong%20Workbench.pdf ) just finished a bench with low cost surplus maple for the top and little cost for wood. This is not always possible, I know, as it takes patients and time. Were I purchasing wood from scratch, I would go to Metro Hardwoods (or shop around for price) and use hard maple for the top. It is very hard, durable, stable, and one of the lower cost woods suitable. Softer woods will not be as durable as the workbench takes a beating. With harder woods that beating just makes it look better. Harder woods are heavier. Workbenches need to be heavy. If you must skimp on costs you could use softwoods for the base. Many commercial benches use beech for the top (they are made in Europe) and softwoods for the base. Hickory is not as available in this area and is subject to checking. Bad area of the country for Southern Yellow Pine. Though classified as a softwood it ain't soft. At lease some of it that I have seen in Florida. It would have to be inferior to Maple at the same price. I suspect maple would be less expensive. Metro gives 10% off to members. Here are the characteristics for the top - Hard, heavy, dry (I would prefer kiln dried for this), inexpensive. Since it will be 8/4 (my recommendation) it should be as flat and straight and easy to saw as possible. If you want me to put your question out to the guild please ask. I would be happy to. However, expect a wide range of opinions. And remember, "never tell anyone what you are building because you might have to turn it into a chopping block.
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